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Contents Listing - Articles & Features in this issue
Sunbeam. Radio control powered glider model.
| Sunbeam | |
| MODEL TYPE | R/C SEMI-SCALE GLIDER |
| DESIGNER | Peter Miller |
| POWER TYPE | Free Flight |
| CONTROL | Radio Control |
| WINGSPAN | 1524mm (60") |
| SOURCE | Radio Modeller Magazine, March 1994 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
Article Snippets
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF BUILD ARTICLE:
"RM Plan Feature. A 60 in span powered glider for complete beginners through to experienced sports fliers. Sunbeam, by Peter Miller. Sunbeam was designed because I had had so much fun with my 2312 0-Four9ier RF-4 (oz2312) and I wanted a powered glider with better glide performance and no acrobatic capability. I had been kicking an idea around in my mind for some time for a powered glider that would be suitable for a complete beginner to build and fly on his own and which would involve minimal outlay in cash.
The model also had to have a reasonable performance and be very quick to build. This would make it ideal for an emergency model to get one back in the air quickly after a disaster and also make it suitable for one-design contests. Power is a .8cc diesel or .049cu in glow, the Cox .049s being ideal. The model is designed to take standard buggy type radios. Construction is tough, light and very easy. The prototype was built in about 12 hours. Because the model is designed with beginners in mind the instructions will be rather more detailed than the expert will need but read them anyway -they show the quickest and easiest way to build the model.
The experienced modeller will enjoy this model, with a Cox Texaco it will climb to over a 1000 feet and the glide is excellent, the slightest lift can extend the glide and ten minute flights are the average. In part two next month I shall give plans for the wings and fuller details, including tests with an altimeter watch. Fuselage: Cut out the sides, doublers and treble, from medium hard 3/32 sheet. Sheets may have bowed edges to make sure that these are trimmed straight on one side. The sides and nose doublers can be marked out by measurement and drawn directly onto the wood. dimensions are given on the plan for this.
The nose trebler is shown on the plan and the tail doubler can be cut using the rear of the fuselage as a pattern. Note that the doubler starts 1/8 behind the side, and the trebler 1/8 behind the doubler. Mark the extent of the doubler and treble lightly with to pencil. These parts will be stuck down with contact adhesive - Thixofix is the best, spread with an old hacksaw blade. To avoid getting contact adhesive outside the area where it is wanted, mask off the areas with sticky tape. Now is a good time to make certain that you are building loft and right fuselage sides. When the glue is tacky remove the tape and lay the parts together lightly. be very sure that they are in exactly the right position..."
"RM Plan Feature. A 60 in span powered glider for complete beginners through to experienced sports fliers. Sunbeam, by Peter Miller. Sunbeam was designed because I had had so much fun with my 2312 0-Four9ier RF-4 (oz2312) and I wanted a powered glider with better glide performance and no acrobatic capability. I had been kicking an idea around in my mind for some time for a powered glider that would be suitable for a complete beginner to build and fly on his own and which would involve minimal outlay in cash.
The model also had to have a reasonable performance and be very quick to build. This would make it ideal for an emergency model to get one back in the air quickly after a disaster and also make it suitable for one-design contests. Power is a .8cc diesel or .049cu in glow, the Cox .049s being ideal. The model is designed to take standard buggy type radios. Construction is tough, light and very easy. The prototype was built in about 12 hours. Because the model is designed with beginners in mind the instructions will be rather more detailed than the expert will need but read them anyway -they show the quickest and easiest way to build the model.
The experienced modeller will enjoy this model, with a Cox Texaco it will climb to over a 1000 feet and the glide is excellent, the slightest lift can extend the glide and ten minute flights are the average. In part two next month I shall give plans for the wings and fuller details, including tests with an altimeter watch. Fuselage: Cut out the sides, doublers and treble, from medium hard 3/32 sheet. Sheets may have bowed edges to make sure that these are trimmed straight on one side. The sides and nose doublers can be marked out by measurement and drawn directly onto the wood. dimensions are given on the plan for this.
The nose trebler is shown on the plan and the tail doubler can be cut using the rear of the fuselage as a pattern. Note that the doubler starts 1/8 behind the side, and the trebler 1/8 behind the doubler. Mark the extent of the doubler and treble lightly with to pencil. These parts will be stuck down with contact adhesive - Thixofix is the best, spread with an old hacksaw blade. To avoid getting contact adhesive outside the area where it is wanted, mask off the areas with sticky tape. Now is a good time to make certain that you are building loft and right fuselage sides. When the glue is tacky remove the tape and lay the parts together lightly. be very sure that they are in exactly the right position..."
