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Contents Listing - Articles & Features in this issue
Spinner - A simple 24" span rubber-powered sport duration model designed by H Ellwood and published in Aeromodeller magazine
Note that build instuctions are printed on the plan itself
| Spinner | |
| MODEL TYPE | SEMI-SCALE POWERED FREE FLIGHT |
| DESIGNER | H Ellwood |
| POWER TYPE | Rubber |
| CONTROL | Free Flight |
| WINGSPAN | 610mm (24") |
| SOURCE | Aeromodeller Magazine, October 1969 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
Article Snippets
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF BUILD INSTRUCTIONS (THESE ARE PRINTED ON THE PLAN ITSELF):
"Spinner, by H Elwood. This plane is called 'The Spinner' because the propeller carving includes a spinner, and is no reflection on its flying characteristics! In fact, it is very stable and was designed for flying in windy conditions nom small fields. Although the large propeller will not permit take-offs. 'Spinner' still lands safely on its short undercarriage with the propeller free-u heeling. Total weight of this little ship, complete with motor, is under 2-1/2 oz, and the designer finds that on windy days, a four stranded motor of 1/4 in rubber is ideal, while calmer weather permits use of six strand of 3/16 in which gives an impressively steep climb. Complete building instructions are to be found on the full size plan.
COMMENCE fuselage construction by cutting out two fuselage sides from 1/16balsa, noting that the port side is longer than the starboard due to side thrust. Pin the starboard piece down over the plan and build the fuselage framework from 3/32 sq balsa directly over the plan. Remove from the board, and repeat for the port side, but ensure that it is opposite handed, ie the 1/16 sheet side is flush with the outer side. This is easily achieved by packing with scrap 1/32 balsa.
Cut all the cross-braces to size, and mark their positions on the fuselage sides. Cement four cross-braces at right angles to the fuselage at the point where the sheet sides end, thus forming a square 'box' when the other side is cemented on. Double cement these joints. When dry, pin down fuselage at the wing seating over the plan view, and join the sides at nose and tail. Add remaining spacers. ensuring that fuselage is not warped in the process.
The 1/32 nose sheeting is glued in position, and the nose bound with thread as shown. Make paper tubes for the dowel and insert. The wing centre section is then built. First, cut all the ribs to size, and sand the TE to section. Pin TE to the plan and pack up the lower spar with 1/16 balsa to maintain the correct height. Next add ribs, LE and top spar. Finally, remove from board, sheet underside of the centre-section, and add gussets.
The tip panels are constructed in the same way, except that the two outer ribs should be angled to suit the dihedral angle. When dry, add to centre section, packing up the tips 2 in to obtain correct dihedral. Round off LE and sand all over. The tailplane and fin are made directly over the plan, using PVA glue to prevent warps due to shrinkage.
Cut out propeller blank, and cement ply discs in position. Drill for boss, carve back of blades and sand to undercambered section. Carve boss, trim profile, dope and balance. File a notch in the end of a 'fuel can' spout - the same 'hand' as drawn, to form a free-wheel ratchet. Glue and screw to the bore. Add balsa disc and carve to spinner shape. Laminate the nose block, with the grain running in alternate directions, adding ply disc and 3/32 in, sheet locating piece. Carve to shape, then insert bush and prop shaft assembly.
Cover hook with plastic sleeving to prevent from chafing rubber. Lightly sand model and apply one coat of dope to extreme edges. Cover with lightweight tissue, and dope with 50/60. dope/thinners. Check for warps - if necessary, remove them in front of an electric fire.Secure wings and tailplane with rubber bands around fuselage checking for 'squareness'. Make up motor from 8 ft of 3/16 rubber, divided into three loops, forming six strands. Insert motor, and temporarily pin noseblock in place. Check CG location and test glide until a flat glide is obtained - achieving this by means of packing under the tailplane. Apply a few turns and test under power again adjusting trim by means of packing, applied around the nose block."
"Spinner, by H Elwood. This plane is called 'The Spinner' because the propeller carving includes a spinner, and is no reflection on its flying characteristics! In fact, it is very stable and was designed for flying in windy conditions nom small fields. Although the large propeller will not permit take-offs. 'Spinner' still lands safely on its short undercarriage with the propeller free-u heeling. Total weight of this little ship, complete with motor, is under 2-1/2 oz, and the designer finds that on windy days, a four stranded motor of 1/4 in rubber is ideal, while calmer weather permits use of six strand of 3/16 in which gives an impressively steep climb. Complete building instructions are to be found on the full size plan.
COMMENCE fuselage construction by cutting out two fuselage sides from 1/16balsa, noting that the port side is longer than the starboard due to side thrust. Pin the starboard piece down over the plan and build the fuselage framework from 3/32 sq balsa directly over the plan. Remove from the board, and repeat for the port side, but ensure that it is opposite handed, ie the 1/16 sheet side is flush with the outer side. This is easily achieved by packing with scrap 1/32 balsa.
Cut all the cross-braces to size, and mark their positions on the fuselage sides. Cement four cross-braces at right angles to the fuselage at the point where the sheet sides end, thus forming a square 'box' when the other side is cemented on. Double cement these joints. When dry, pin down fuselage at the wing seating over the plan view, and join the sides at nose and tail. Add remaining spacers. ensuring that fuselage is not warped in the process.
The 1/32 nose sheeting is glued in position, and the nose bound with thread as shown. Make paper tubes for the dowel and insert. The wing centre section is then built. First, cut all the ribs to size, and sand the TE to section. Pin TE to the plan and pack up the lower spar with 1/16 balsa to maintain the correct height. Next add ribs, LE and top spar. Finally, remove from board, sheet underside of the centre-section, and add gussets.
The tip panels are constructed in the same way, except that the two outer ribs should be angled to suit the dihedral angle. When dry, add to centre section, packing up the tips 2 in to obtain correct dihedral. Round off LE and sand all over. The tailplane and fin are made directly over the plan, using PVA glue to prevent warps due to shrinkage.
Cut out propeller blank, and cement ply discs in position. Drill for boss, carve back of blades and sand to undercambered section. Carve boss, trim profile, dope and balance. File a notch in the end of a 'fuel can' spout - the same 'hand' as drawn, to form a free-wheel ratchet. Glue and screw to the bore. Add balsa disc and carve to spinner shape. Laminate the nose block, with the grain running in alternate directions, adding ply disc and 3/32 in, sheet locating piece. Carve to shape, then insert bush and prop shaft assembly.
Cover hook with plastic sleeving to prevent from chafing rubber. Lightly sand model and apply one coat of dope to extreme edges. Cover with lightweight tissue, and dope with 50/60. dope/thinners. Check for warps - if necessary, remove them in front of an electric fire.Secure wings and tailplane with rubber bands around fuselage checking for 'squareness'. Make up motor from 8 ft of 3/16 rubber, divided into three loops, forming six strands. Insert motor, and temporarily pin noseblock in place. Check CG location and test glide until a flat glide is obtained - achieving this by means of packing under the tailplane. Apply a few turns and test under power again adjusting trim by means of packing, applied around the nose block."
