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Contents Listing - Articles & Features in this issue
Two different rubber-powered high performance indoor glider models are included on this plan from Aeromodeller magazine:- Little Willie Mk2 and Puck.
| Little Willie MkII | |
| MODEL TYPE | SEMI-SCALE POWERED FREE FLIGHT |
| DESIGNER | Stuart Howard and Bruce Edwards |
| POWER TYPE | Rubber |
| CONTROL | Free Flight |
| WINGSPAN | 457mm (18") |
| SOURCE | Aeromodeller Magazine, April 1971 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
| Puck | |
| MODEL TYPE | SEMI-SCALE POWERED FREE FLIGHT |
| DESIGNER | Bruce Edwards |
| POWER TYPE | Rubber |
| CONTROL | Free Flight |
| WINGSPAN | 356mm (14") |
| SOURCE | Aeromodeller Magazine, April 1971 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
Article Snippets
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF PUCK BUILD ARTICLE:
"A half-size microfilm covered miniature for indoor flying. Puck, by B Edwards.THIS IS A half-size International class 65 cm high performance model and as such is capable of produc-ing excellent high performance flights when built down to minimum weight. The weight range should be between 0.005 and 0.010 oz. To get down to the lower limit with a model strong enough to be handled and flown will depend on your experience and ability. The entire model is built of wood in the 4 to 4-1/2 lb/cu ft density range. Indoor materials are now available in this country, so that there should not be any difficulty in obtaining the correct materials. Wood sizes shown are for guidance only and represent a 'middle road', rather than the ultimate, except in the case of the motor stick thickness.
Start by cutting templates for the wing, stab, fin and prop blade out of cardboard or balsa sheet. Trace the outlines directly on to your building board and pin templates in position over these. Soak your spars then pin them around the templates, using small cubes of scrap balsa to hold them in position. The prop blades arc also built flat. When the out-lines are properly dry, remove templates and glue joints with thinned cement or 'indoor glue'.
One template curve does for all ribs - wing, stab and prop. Cut out and cement ribs in position, remembering that you need three deep ribs for the wing at points marked X and X'. These take the place of compression ribs and arc lighter. Motor stick blank is cut from sheet then soaked and wrapped around a 3/16 in dia former with tissue. Bake in a cool oven for 10-15 minutes (Regulo 4). Cement seam, making sure it is straight. Bend rear hook to shape and glue to rear web.
The webs go RIGHT THROUGH the stick. Cut nose back at an angle of 45°, add end cap, bracing post and front bearing. Cut a slot in the prop jig, 4-1/2 in from the tip, so that the shaft is vertical, and groove the 'Datum Line' to take the spar. Mark the spar position on your prop ribs and tip. Assemble, making sure the blade conforms to the jig shape..."
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF LITTLE WILLIE Mk2 BUILD ARTICLE:
"The 'Easy B' type of model makes an ideal beginners introduction to indoor modelling as well as being a great 'fun' model for the mode reperienced. As it is capabale of flights in excess of ten minutes, it is certainly not a toy.To keep the competition class within reach of the tyro, we have stuck to the spirit of the original rules, that is: 1. Maximum wing span 18 in flat, not projected. 2. Maximum wing chord 3 in. 3. No curved surfaces or spar bending rectangles only. 4. Tissue covering only - no microfilm. 5. No bracing. 6. Solid motor stick, tail boom and prop blades.
Stewart and I got together on the design while looking for a suitable project for young nephews, and have been pleasantly surprised at the perform-ance of the models built. Over the past three months my model has been used to give flying exhibitions in schools and youth clubs and is still going strong. The only difference being that the rudder has been mounted upright in front of the stab to save it from damage in cluttered rooms.
The Propeller: This is the most important part of any rubber model, so we will start here. If this is a first model, the easiest way to make a propeller is to cut out two blades and a spar. Bend the prop shaft and cement to the spar. Line the shaft up vertically and glue on a blade at 45° in such a way that the front of the blade on the left hand side of the spar slopes upwards towards you, then glue on the other blade to the right hand side so that the back slopes downwards. When the propeller turns anti-clockwise you should feel a draught on the same side as the shaft. For the more experienced or ambitious builder a jig is carved from block, as shown on the plan, the blades soaked for a few minutes in hot water, then individually strapped to the jig with strips of tissue and baked in a cool oven (Regulo 1/4) for 10-15 minutes. When both blades are dry and shaped, one is laid on the jig with the datum lines corresponding and the prop spar glued in place, so that the shaft is vertical and parallel to the corner of the jig. Use white PVA glue for this job, using as little as possible. When dry, remove and repeat for the other blade.
Wing and Tailplane: To cut ribs to shape you need a template. Either trace the rib curve from the plan on to a piece of 1/32 ply or find an old 12 inch record or dish which you can cut round. Make the compression rib as shown on the plan. If you use the arc section the upright must be in the middle. Templates can be used for building round. These are best made by tracing the inside lines on to card or balsa sheet and cutting out. It is best to cut a 'V' in the template where the ribs go, so that the ribs can be glued in over the former. Cut ribs from a rectangle of 1/32 sheet 3 inch wide. The same section is used for both wing and stab. Ribs are trimmed to length from the trailing edge.
It will be noted that the port wing panel is longer than the starboard. This is because indoor models turn with the motor torque to the left, and this provides more lift to the inside wing, enabling the model to turn tighter..."
"A half-size microfilm covered miniature for indoor flying. Puck, by B Edwards.THIS IS A half-size International class 65 cm high performance model and as such is capable of produc-ing excellent high performance flights when built down to minimum weight. The weight range should be between 0.005 and 0.010 oz. To get down to the lower limit with a model strong enough to be handled and flown will depend on your experience and ability. The entire model is built of wood in the 4 to 4-1/2 lb/cu ft density range. Indoor materials are now available in this country, so that there should not be any difficulty in obtaining the correct materials. Wood sizes shown are for guidance only and represent a 'middle road', rather than the ultimate, except in the case of the motor stick thickness.
Start by cutting templates for the wing, stab, fin and prop blade out of cardboard or balsa sheet. Trace the outlines directly on to your building board and pin templates in position over these. Soak your spars then pin them around the templates, using small cubes of scrap balsa to hold them in position. The prop blades arc also built flat. When the out-lines are properly dry, remove templates and glue joints with thinned cement or 'indoor glue'.
One template curve does for all ribs - wing, stab and prop. Cut out and cement ribs in position, remembering that you need three deep ribs for the wing at points marked X and X'. These take the place of compression ribs and arc lighter. Motor stick blank is cut from sheet then soaked and wrapped around a 3/16 in dia former with tissue. Bake in a cool oven for 10-15 minutes (Regulo 4). Cement seam, making sure it is straight. Bend rear hook to shape and glue to rear web.
The webs go RIGHT THROUGH the stick. Cut nose back at an angle of 45°, add end cap, bracing post and front bearing. Cut a slot in the prop jig, 4-1/2 in from the tip, so that the shaft is vertical, and groove the 'Datum Line' to take the spar. Mark the spar position on your prop ribs and tip. Assemble, making sure the blade conforms to the jig shape..."
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF LITTLE WILLIE Mk2 BUILD ARTICLE:
"The 'Easy B' type of model makes an ideal beginners introduction to indoor modelling as well as being a great 'fun' model for the mode reperienced. As it is capabale of flights in excess of ten minutes, it is certainly not a toy.To keep the competition class within reach of the tyro, we have stuck to the spirit of the original rules, that is: 1. Maximum wing span 18 in flat, not projected. 2. Maximum wing chord 3 in. 3. No curved surfaces or spar bending rectangles only. 4. Tissue covering only - no microfilm. 5. No bracing. 6. Solid motor stick, tail boom and prop blades.
Stewart and I got together on the design while looking for a suitable project for young nephews, and have been pleasantly surprised at the perform-ance of the models built. Over the past three months my model has been used to give flying exhibitions in schools and youth clubs and is still going strong. The only difference being that the rudder has been mounted upright in front of the stab to save it from damage in cluttered rooms.
The Propeller: This is the most important part of any rubber model, so we will start here. If this is a first model, the easiest way to make a propeller is to cut out two blades and a spar. Bend the prop shaft and cement to the spar. Line the shaft up vertically and glue on a blade at 45° in such a way that the front of the blade on the left hand side of the spar slopes upwards towards you, then glue on the other blade to the right hand side so that the back slopes downwards. When the propeller turns anti-clockwise you should feel a draught on the same side as the shaft. For the more experienced or ambitious builder a jig is carved from block, as shown on the plan, the blades soaked for a few minutes in hot water, then individually strapped to the jig with strips of tissue and baked in a cool oven (Regulo 1/4) for 10-15 minutes. When both blades are dry and shaped, one is laid on the jig with the datum lines corresponding and the prop spar glued in place, so that the shaft is vertical and parallel to the corner of the jig. Use white PVA glue for this job, using as little as possible. When dry, remove and repeat for the other blade.
Wing and Tailplane: To cut ribs to shape you need a template. Either trace the rib curve from the plan on to a piece of 1/32 ply or find an old 12 inch record or dish which you can cut round. Make the compression rib as shown on the plan. If you use the arc section the upright must be in the middle. Templates can be used for building round. These are best made by tracing the inside lines on to card or balsa sheet and cutting out. It is best to cut a 'V' in the template where the ribs go, so that the ribs can be glued in over the former. Cut ribs from a rectangle of 1/32 sheet 3 inch wide. The same section is used for both wing and stab. Ribs are trimmed to length from the trailing edge.
It will be noted that the port wing panel is longer than the starboard. This is because indoor models turn with the motor torque to the left, and this provides more lift to the inside wing, enabling the model to turn tighter..."
