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Contents Listing - Articles & Features in this issue
Morane L. Scale model WWI parasol fighter model, for CO2 power.
Published in 1986 Aeromodeller issue
| Morane L | |
| MODEL TYPE | SCALE POWERED FREE FLIGHT |
| DESIGNER | H Stephens |
| POWER TYPE | Unpowered |
| CONTROL | Free Flight |
| WINGSPAN | 635mm (25") |
| SOURCE | Aeromodeller Magazine, March 1986 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
Article Snippets
FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF BUILD ARTICLE:
"A delightful CO2 powered 25 in span replica of one of the world's first fighter aircraft. Morane L, by H Stephens.The Model. This is a flying model primarily and it does fly extraordinarily well. At last year's Aerornodeller scale event at Old Warden the wind was so strong that most CO2 models were broken or grounded. This model flew consistently and sustained no damage.It has also flown successfully indoors returning very good durations. As the wing area is large and the weight is low, the flight is slow. This is a great help when the roof or walls are hit at indoor meetings as little damage results.
To achieve this performance, true scale has been sacrificed in the tail areas and aerofoil. But I think when you have flown your Morane you will agree that the sacrifice is worthwhile. For best results keep this model light. Wings: The wings are built in one piece over the plan. Pin down the lower spar and shaped trailing edge. Add ribs, ensuring that the 1/16 in ribs are positioned as shown. When this assembly is dry, fit the leading edge and tips, packing the leading edge of tip to butt against the wing leading edge. The top spars are cut just outboard of the outer rib and bent down to meet the tip, the ends being chamfered to fit. Leave until all glue has set. With wings still pinned down, cut through the spars and leading edge with a razor saw.
Unpin one wing and cut spars at an angle to give correct dihedral. Pack free wing up to 7/8 in at the outer rib and glue butt joints of spars and leading edge. Fit the dihedral braces. When assembly is dry, unpin and fit centre section cut-out edge members. These are at mid-spar position at the front and flush with the trailing edge at rear. The wing is now ready for covering. I used pre-dyed lightweight Modelspan, water shrunk and given two coats of thinned clear dope. The centre section pylon may now be fitted. This is made from bamboo sanded to oval section. The bottom ends are sharpened and sit in 3/64 x 1/32 in deep holes drilled in the rear spar, and in the 1/16in. rib just aft of the front spar.
Undercarriage and cabane: These are very simple structures. The only special point to watch is to fit the wing attachment members after fitting the struts to the fuselage. Ensure that both are at the same incidence angles.Fuselage: This is a basic 1/16 in square structure. Select fairly hard wood for the longerons as the extra strength is worth the weight. Build the sides over the plan and note that the longerons should be chamfered to fit onto the top and bottom of the tailplane. There is no vertical or horizontal member at the rear. Adjust the gap between the longerons at the rear to fit the thickness of the tailplane if necessary..."
"A delightful CO2 powered 25 in span replica of one of the world's first fighter aircraft. Morane L, by H Stephens.The Model. This is a flying model primarily and it does fly extraordinarily well. At last year's Aerornodeller scale event at Old Warden the wind was so strong that most CO2 models were broken or grounded. This model flew consistently and sustained no damage.It has also flown successfully indoors returning very good durations. As the wing area is large and the weight is low, the flight is slow. This is a great help when the roof or walls are hit at indoor meetings as little damage results.
To achieve this performance, true scale has been sacrificed in the tail areas and aerofoil. But I think when you have flown your Morane you will agree that the sacrifice is worthwhile. For best results keep this model light. Wings: The wings are built in one piece over the plan. Pin down the lower spar and shaped trailing edge. Add ribs, ensuring that the 1/16 in ribs are positioned as shown. When this assembly is dry, fit the leading edge and tips, packing the leading edge of tip to butt against the wing leading edge. The top spars are cut just outboard of the outer rib and bent down to meet the tip, the ends being chamfered to fit. Leave until all glue has set. With wings still pinned down, cut through the spars and leading edge with a razor saw.
Unpin one wing and cut spars at an angle to give correct dihedral. Pack free wing up to 7/8 in at the outer rib and glue butt joints of spars and leading edge. Fit the dihedral braces. When assembly is dry, unpin and fit centre section cut-out edge members. These are at mid-spar position at the front and flush with the trailing edge at rear. The wing is now ready for covering. I used pre-dyed lightweight Modelspan, water shrunk and given two coats of thinned clear dope. The centre section pylon may now be fitted. This is made from bamboo sanded to oval section. The bottom ends are sharpened and sit in 3/64 x 1/32 in deep holes drilled in the rear spar, and in the 1/16in. rib just aft of the front spar.
Undercarriage and cabane: These are very simple structures. The only special point to watch is to fit the wing attachment members after fitting the struts to the fuselage. Ensure that both are at the same incidence angles.Fuselage: This is a basic 1/16 in square structure. Select fairly hard wood for the longerons as the extra strength is worth the weight. Build the sides over the plan and note that the longerons should be chamfered to fit onto the top and bottom of the tailplane. There is no vertical or horizontal member at the rear. Adjust the gap between the longerons at the rear to fit the thickness of the tailplane if necessary..."
