Messerschmitt Me 262

FIRST PARAGRAPHS OF BUILD ARTICLE:

"Tough, almost unbreakable, easy to fly and yet nippy on the controls, the Me 262 makes a fine semi-scale trainer for any 1.5 cc engine. By Pat Lloyd.THIS SEMI-SCALE model of the Me 262 - which owes its fame to the fact that it was the world's first operational jet powered fighter when it entered service in 1944 - is suitable both for the beginner to control-line flying, and also to the sport flyer who wants a 'different' model. With its two large under-slung jet pods it certainly qualifies for this category, and looks striking in its black green dark green camouflaged upper surfaces and light blue lower - as shown in the July issue when this aircraft was featured. Don't let the lack of an undercarriage deter you those jet pods will absorb all the shocks and enable smooth landings to he made on grass without the usual 'nose risers'.

You can start construction practically anywhere with various sub assemblies, but if you decide to build the 'nacelle saver' modification in. then hollow the nacelle halves before cementing them together. The main point to watch is the correct assembly sequence for the fuselage. This should be as follows. Firstly, cut out the 1/2 in fuselage blank, with suitable mods to bearer spacing, etc, for your particular motor. Cut and epoxy hearers into their respective slots- you will note that the bearers' 7/16 in width does not match the fuselage's width - don't worry, add a piece of balsa packing. Next, drill a hole for the bellcrank pivot bolt and then make up the complete bellcrank assembly, with leadouts and push rod as per plan. Solder cup washers on the wire ends, then add the whole unit to the recess in the lower bearer.

Make sure your leadouts are on the port side of the blank!Drill the mounting holes to suit the engine, and insert the bolts, locking the heads with wire. Now add the fuselage doublers, carefully hollowed to clear bolt heads, ends of bellcrank, etc - try threading these over the leadouts and push rods a couple of times to ensure a snug fit before gluing. Okay! Now glue the lot together and when dry sand to shape. Don't round off the seating position for the fin! Cut out the tailplane, sanding to section to suit the 3/16 dowel. Next add the fin, noting carefully that when adding the tailplane, put the elevatros with their dowel through the slot first! Hinge the elevators either by sewing with nylon thread, or use tape. Bend the control horn as shown, or if preferred use an ordinary ply one, stuck into the elevator under surface.

Score and crack completed wing to suit the dihedral, then add dihedral brace. When dry assemble to fuselage, carefully drilling two holes into the wing and lower bearer. Cement wing in position and add dowels, when dry, follow similar procedure with nacelles. These should be 'handed' by carefully sanding the wing mount area for a snug fit under respective wings. Link up the pushrod and horn, retaining with a cup washer soldered on, and check for binding around the fuselage holes.

Add the dowel pitot and the wire leadout guide into starboard wing tip, binding it to the picot with nylon thread. Finish the fuselage by blending the fuselage nose into the spinner - covering the motor with a plastic bag while doing this. Apply a couple of coats of sanding sealer, -then a layer of lightweight tissue. another of sanding scaler, and you ve a variety of finishes to add to your choice. A coat of fuel proofer will protect the finish against the glow fuel, although Humbrol enamels are not affected by diesel fuel. The last stage is to make up the fuel tank (or if you prefer use a commercial one) then paint and epoxy glue it to the fuselage. Now you're ready to fly - but make sure that your helper does not hold the pushrod with his hand while launching - it took the designer a long time to work out that little problem!"